Deadly Western Breach

A recent blog from a Mountain Maddness climber talks about the difficulty of ascending via the Western Breach and the pitfalls of loose rock. We hear a lot about the dangers of altitude sickness, but one of the biggest problems on the Western Breach Route can be rock fall. I had a group of three climbers ascend it a few years back. They woke in the middle of the night to what sounded like thunder rolling down the mountain. They quickly realized it was boulders crashing toward them. One litterly bounced over their tent, missing them by a few meager feet.

A rock slide in 2006 killed three American climbers and injured several others. After this incident the route was closed for several months until the National Park Service opened a new route less prone to rock fall. Martha's report post last week leads me to believe there is still cause for concern.

The Western Breach Route has long been a goal of mine. The option to spend a night in the crater and get up close and personal with the glaciers is VERY tempting. But it is, by far, the most dangerous route on the mountain. Something to think about before booking!

Tanzania UNESCO World Heritage Sites

UNESCO just finished their annual meeting and added 13 new sites to their list of 890. "The World Heritage List includes 890 properties forming part of the cultural and natural heritage which the World Heritage Committee considers as having outstanding universal value."

I just love the way that sounds. If you're having trouble deciding where to go on your next vacation this list is a great place to start. While none of the new sites are in Tanzania, I just had to give a "shout out" to this organization. I couldn't help but go back and remind myself which sites were already on the list:

• Ngorongoro Conservation Area
• Ruins of Kilwa Kisiwani and Ruins of Songo Mnara
• Serengeti National Park
• Selous Game Reserve
• Kilimanjaro National Park
• Stone Town of Zanzibar
• Kondoa Rock-Art Sites

Kilwa Kisiwani, Stone Town and the Kondoa Rock-Art sites are all cultural sites while the rest are natural. Aside from global recognition UNESCO has also donated thousands of dollars to protect Kilimanjaro and other precious natural resources of Tanzania.

Treasures in Kilimanjaro

I tripped across this recent account of a 1978 Kilimanjaro climb. It's fantastic to read what it was like for Bob McKerrow to ascent the mountain before it really became the adventure tourist destination it is now. But the best part is the folklore he uncovered in Ethopia. I've heard some interesting stories before, but never a link between King Solomon and Kilimanjaro.

I don't want to give away too many details because Bob also has some great pictures and I'd hate for you to miss them. Take a look and let me know what you think.

Outfitters: saving too many bucks

The final tier of outfitters in our tour of Kilimanjaro climbs are the low-end providers. The only time you're likely to run into one of these companies is if you're already local and just go with anyone you can find in Moshi or Arusha Tanzania when you get there.

Again, the biggest difference with this level of outfitter is security and comfort. With the lower-end outfitters you will have fewer porters and support staff and therefore less food and comfort gear. Where this really becomes a problem is with the porters themselves. Some outfitters don't provide any food on the climb for porters. Porters eat whatever you don't or go begging from other parties. Aside from the ethical issues, this is just plane dangerous. Now the people meant to support and protect you are already weak and under prepared themselves. If the weather turns bad porters might not have warm shelter.

I really don't recommend bargain hunting too much when planning to climb 19,340 feet above sea level where you'll find about half the oxygen typically needed to survive. Even if you're already local, take the time to research a few outfitters with good reputations or consult a respected travel guide that lists some reputable outfitters.

Outfitters: going local style

As we discussed before, there are essentially three tiers of outfitters: high, middle and low. Last time we reviewed that the high-end outfitters are more expensive but provide more security and comfort. So if you're on a budget, the mid-tier outfitters may be a reasonable option for you. My experience is that the mid-tier outfitters are still way more comfortable then when I backpack on my own, but not as comfortable or secure as the high-end providers.

Disclosure alert: I booked my own climbs with a mid-tier outfitter and Kilimanjaro Adventures provides all our trips with them as well. So you're welcome to take my comments with a grain of salt.

Compared with the high-end outfitters, mid-tier outfitters lack a certified American guide as well as a global brand. At this level the guides are typically all Tanzanians who were certified by the Kilimanjaro National Park Service. So they know the mountain and typically have years of experience. But they won't be able to discuss the physiological impact of Diamox nor quote the percent of oxygen in the air at each camp. The lack of a global or even local brand name company is slowly being replaced by regional agents (like us) who represent these Tanzanian outfitters. They are able to talk with you on the phone and give you honest answers from people who better understand where you're coming from.

As for comfort, again this is way more comfortable than dehydrated camping meals eaten in your own tent, but nowhere near the high end. Food is still hot, fresh and plentiful. But instead of a massive North Face dining tent you'll sit on stools in a large 4 season tent (as seen above). No one carries a toilet for you so you'll have to use the pit toilet provided at each campsite or make do with the nearest bush.

I haven't included any links in today's post for fear of seeming biased. If you'd like me to list a few then post a comment and I'll be happy to do so.

Good packing suggestions

Africafreak offers some offers some good ideas to consider when packing for your climb. I particularly like his points about how to pick out boots and some of the key features.

As you may remember, I've been ranting that boots are probably the most important piece of equipment you'll take to Kilimanjaro. Socks also go in this category. I personally have been much happier with silk than polypropylene, but it doesn't take too much to experiment on your own.

I haven't found gaiters to be as useful. I see them on almost every packing list, including the one we provide customers. But I've never actually used them on any of my Kilimanjaro treks. They could be used for the mud and water the first day in the rain forrest or to help keep your legs warm on the summit. But there really isn't that much snow on the mountain these days.

Finally, I love his final point about jeans. When packing, try to take as little cotton on the mountain as possible. Save it for the safari.

Outfitters: booking with the big boys

Now that we've talked about some of the necessary equipment, we probably need to say a word or two about who you might want to climb with. In my experience, there are essentially three tiers of outfitters: high, middle and low.

The high end outfitters are many of the global tour companies we've all come to know and respect like National Geographic, REI Adventures and a few others. There are also some that specialize on Tanzania or east Africa like Thompson Safaris. In fact, Thompson Safaris just set up a deal to provide free fitness training to clients. As you can imagine, these are the more expensive options but they also come with a number of benefits, mostly focused on safety and comfort.

For safety you'll typically travel with a fully certified and accomplished American mountaineer and have the security of dealing with a name brand organization. A fully certified mountain guide can be invaluable, especially if you plan to do a lot of mountaineering after Kilimanjaro. The guide can provide details on altitude sickness, breathing and rest-step techniques, the physiology of altitude sickness and the impact of drugs like Diamox. They are also emergy first responders and can help you in the event of an emergency.

The comfort side is a bit harder to quantify. No matter how cushy your outfitter everyone still has to get up the mountain on his/her own power. But these higher-end outfitters do make things a bit easier. The two biggest areas are in the dining and defecation dept. They typically provide huge dining tents with full chairs, tables and a very high quality of food. They also typically provide their own toilet. So if you get "performance anxiety" over a standard pit toilet this may be the option for you.

All of this safety and comfort does come at a cost though. These folks usually start at over US$3,000 for just the climb itself. Safaris and transportation are extra. If you've got the money you really can't go wrong with these companies. But if not, there are other safe and comfortable options to consider with the mid-tier outfitters. But you'll have to wait until Tuesday to hear about them.

Kilimanjaro; what's in a name

Another Kilimanjaro fact that seems to create a great deal of confusion is what the name actually means. I've seen writers define it any number of ways. But the fact is, no one is entirely sure of the origin or even the native language of the name itself.

In the local Chagga dialect it could mean Mountain of Greatness or even Mountain of Caravans. The nearby Maasai tribes might call it White Mountain. In Swahili it could be translated into Shining Mountain, the unlikely Little Mountain or even Mountain of the Cold Devils. It was believed by early tribes that there were devils on the mountain who punished anyone who tried to climb it by turning limbs black. This is believed to have been frost bite.

The translation that seems to have the most support is Swahili. One translation of kilima is "top of the hill" and njaro is believed to refer to snow or white. Even the locals don't know for sure where the name comes from. But after Hemmingway and a few thousand adventure toursits have shared stories about the fabled flat top mountain, most people these days agree it means adventure.

How tall is Kilimanjaro?

I've been writing this blog for a few months now and monitoring daily the web conversations and articles about Kilimanjaro to keep up to date. And I'm amazed at the variety of facts and figures people quote about this humble mountain. For the next few posts I think we need to clarify a few things about Kilimanjaro.

First, the mountain is officially 5,895 meters or 19,341 feet above sea level as stated by the Tanzanian Embassy. Some people don't round up with the metric conversion and call it at 19,340 feet. But I recently saw a post that Kilimanjaro is over 20,000 feet above sea level (no link to avoid embarrassment). Wiki knows it's 19,340 feet. Even the Journal of the Tanganyika Society (Tanganyika was the original country name before adding Zanzibar and renaming it Tanzania) reported the correct height back in 1965. Even my watch's altimeter knew it wasn't 20,000 feet above sea level, although it would have been cool to show people a reading above 20,000 feet when I got home.

I can almost understand people getting the height of the mountain wrong, what with everyone converting back and forth between metric and English measurements. But the fact that really confuses me is the debate about where the mountain is actually located. Some people continue to think a portion of the mountain is in Kenya. It isn't. 100% of Kilimanjaro has been in Tanzania for a very long time. Germany and the UK cut the country borders a while ago and they have not changed. If you don't believe the Tanzanian Embassy then maybe you'll at least believe Google Earth.

The best jacket to climb Kilimanjaro?

Outside Magazine's own gear girl suggests taking a look at the newly invigorated Eddie Bauer line with their First Ascent jacket. She also introduces Westcomb Cruiser, a company I'm not personally familiar with.

A good shell jacket is critical on Kilimanjaro. As I've pointed out before, temperatures fluctuate greatly on a daily basis. In the morning when you start off the sun is out and it's warm (about 70 degrees at lower camps). The clouds move in by noon and the temperature drops to freezing, especially on the Machama/Shira/Lemosho side of the mountain. By late afternoon the sun cuts through again for a nice warm finish before temperatures plummet for the night.

During the day you only have access to what you personally carry. The porters will take your other clothes, pack, tent, sleeping bag, etc. on to the next camp. So a good shell that can vent well while keeping you warm is a real god-send.

For more details on what to expect check out Kilimanjaro Adventures.

Kilimanjaro virtial tour

Larry Ferlazzo's post last week reminded me of the New York Times' virtual tour of a climb up Kilimanjaro via the Shira route. If you're looking at another route have no fear. At the Shira plateau the Shira, Lemosho and Machame routes all converge. So after that they're all the same.

I like the details on oxygen levels and heart rates. It's a great reminder that this is a real mountain with real risks and not just a tourist adventure.

Renting gear to climb Kilimanjaro

I've had a lot of customers ask about renting equipment for climbing Kilimanjaro. Some simply need a warm sleeping bag while other are looking for a full outfit including jackets and boots. My advice to the latter group is always the same, bring your own personal gear.

Hiking 10+ miles per day, sleeping at over 10,000 feet above sea level and staying warm as temperatures fluctuate from freezing to over 80, back to freezing, back up to the 60s and down again to freezing all represent a significant challenges. Whenever I'm backpacking I find it hard enough to sleep well my first few nights in the sleeping bag I bought specifically for my own comfort. I can't imagine doing it in a new bag that may or may not fit me or be warm enough.

I don't want to sound cavalier about gear. I know it can get very expensive. But another option is for climbers to get less expensive gear and test it a few times before flying to Africa rather than saving a few bucks by renting. Anything that needs to meet your personal needs like warm clothes, shells (rain gear), boots and sleeping bags should be tested before you arrive in a developing country to climb 19,340 feet above sea level. Some of this gear can even be rented from local outdoor stores for an extended period of time. For example, REI rents out sleeping bags and pads.

Kilimanjaro provides enough surprises all by itself. The gear you use shouldn't be one of them.

2nd most important equipment

After my last post about the importance of boots I was reminded about another critical piece of equipment. On our last climb my friend Mike neglected to put on sunscreen or lip protection. By the end of the day his face was a deep shade of crimson; a bit painful but easy enough to live with. The real surprise came the next morning when he woke up and his lips had swollen 3 times larger than normal. He looked like a chimpanzee in heat. It made eating and drinking a pain, not to mention the social stigma of looking like he was blowing kisses at everyone on the mountain.

I'm sticking to my opinion that boots are the most important, but would like to add a small reminder that personal care gear can really help as well. Don't forget your sunscreen, sun glasses and lip protection.

Your most important equipment

I recently took a week's vacation to backpack the trans-Zion trail and visit Bryce National Park (both were amazing). I tried to cut my pack weight down to the bare minimum and spent a lot of time thinking about what gear was nice, necessary or critical. I came to the conclusion that the most critical piece of gear for a backpacker as well as on Kilimanjaro is boots.

Without good boots there is little you can do. You can spend a wet night on the trail or go a day or two without hot food. But if you can't walk, it's all over with. And that means not only boots, but good, well worn boots that your feet are comfortable in and don't give you blisters. My feet were overheating in my new Asolos and my damp, sweaty socks gave me some bad blisters. By the end of a 15 mile slog I was limping and exhausted. The boots weren't the problem, I just hadn't taken enough time to get my tender-feet used to them. Heavy-duty boots needed for most long backpacking and alpine trips really need a few weeks to break them in.

For Kilimanjaro, I've had numerous customers ask about renting boots and I always suggest otherwise. Nothing kills an expensive alpine adventure faster than feet too painful to actually walk on. And the only way off Kilimanjaro is to walk or be carried.

The timing of my blisters and this blog is great since Backpacker Magazine just posted their 2009 Gear Guide for Boots. While they're a lot heavier, I have always loved the heavy duty boots with the ankle support and stiff feel. After 10-15 miles on a rocky trail my legs are tired from swinging the extra weight, but my feet are usually still happy.

Skimping on gear for the mountain

I have been catching up on a few blogs I follow and came across Kristin Hostetter's advice about which gear to skimp on. She suggests that if you need to skimp somewhere, go with a cheaper with a sleeping bag. Not only is this good advice for your regular backpacking trips, I think it applies double for Kilimanjaro. On the mountain porters carry your gear and you'll almost never have to carry your own sleeping bag.

I've had a number of customers ask about renting a sleeping bag. I can appreciate that some people, especially folks living and working in Africa, don't have access to a local REI store. But sleep is absolutely critical on Kilimanjaro. Without getting adequate rest climbers don't adjust as well to the altitude nor recover from each day's hike. It's hard enough to sleep at altitude. I worry that climbers who rent sleeping bags won't be warm enough or comfortable enough on the mountain to get a good night sleep. 15,000 feet above sea level on a far away continent is no place to test personal equipment for the first time.

Kristin points out some less expensive options from Coleman, REI or Cabelas. I'll go one further, stop by your local Walmart and pick up a knock-off for under $50. Then you'll have time to test it before you get all the way to Africa and ensure it's really comfortable for you.

Machame route video

I just watched this video from Trial Magazine where one of the staff members did a 6-day Machame climb. It's a nice overview of the route and what it really feels like.

Last time I did the Machame route I took 7 days and found the extra day well worth it. Instead of hiking directly from Baranco to Barafu (final summit camp) we had an additional day with a stop at Karanga instead. If you have the time I highly recommend an extra day to acclimate. As the video correctly points out, it's not a technically hard mountain but the altitude can make or break you.

I also really liked hearing from the guide, Samuel. Nice touch.

Kilimanjaro photo wins contest

Sorry for the silence. I was out backpacking in Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks. I'm finally getting caught up now and had to share this. I know this is a bit off topic from our typical Kilimanjaro adventure travel and trekking related content. But this is a GREAT picture.



Rob Bukar won the Imaging-Resource photo competition for April. While there are no real details about the photo itself, I think this came from the Kenya side of the mountain given the wildlife and mountain view.

Kilimanjaro makes another top 10 list

Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro has recently been recognized by Forbes Travel as one of the top 10 for amateur climbers. Take a look and get a few ideas for some other places to consider after you get back from Tanzania.

Kilimanjaro water unsafe?

A recent backpacker returned from Kilimanjaro with water samples to test how well it was being filtered and treated on the mountain. In this case, the answer is not well at all! As a result a number of climbers became ill. While I'm only aware of a few cases where climbers got sick on the mountain (aside from altitude sickness), water quality is a serious issue on Kilimanjaro. On one climb I witnessed a porter urinating into the steam that was to be our water supply.

There are a few things you can do to protect yourself on the mountain. If you bring your own filter make sure you get your water far enough upstream to avoid any contamination from your own party. If the porters are providing all your water make sure to ask your guide how the water is being purified. Warn him that you've heard stories and do not want to get sick. The guides know sick clients mean lower tips and should take extra precautions with your water.

Brief History of Kilimanjaro

Roy J Hinde of the Travel Zone blog has posted a nice, short geological history of Mt. Kilimanjaro as well as some of the thoughts on how the name came about. Check it out.

Kili makes top 10 list

This month Backpacker Magazine posted their list of the Top 10 classics. Kilimanjaro rated along with Everest Base camp, Mont Blanc, Machu Picchu, Annapurna and more. Among their reasons it's a "giant standing alone, Kili offers a view unlike any in the world."

They also offer some helpful tips (beta) to consider when planning your trip and begin your Swahili training with "pole pole" meaning slowly. On our first trip up Kilimanjaro this became the mountain mantra for all the climbers. Porters would huff it at us as they streaked past to the next camp and guides would constantly remind customers to take it slow.

Backpacker is one of my favorite publications and I appreciate that they only have space for a small amount of information. But I might suggest anyone interested in making the climb also consider some of the local outfitters. I don't want to name names for fear of seeming biased. But there are a number of reputable companies that also have agents or offices in the US, UK, Germany and South Africa. The nice thing about these options is you can book with a reputable agent in your home country while ensuring your guide definitely knows Swahili, since he's Tanzanian. These types of trips tend to be cheaper than Alaskan Mountain Guides, National Geographic or others. However, you lose the comfort of having an expert American guide travel with you (as well as a personal toilet carried up the mountain for you). You might think you can live without the expert advice, but after you see (and smell) the state of the pit toilets on Kilimanjaro you might have second thoughts about the personal toilet.

Kilimanjaro the most dangerous mountain?

Thanks to the Adventure Blog for bringing this one to our attention in a recent post. A recent report posted on grough website highlights a number of risks that make Kilimanjaro "one of the most dangerous mountains in the world." According to Dr Windsor, a UK member of the commission advising the Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme "cold, dehydration and altitude cause between 50 and 75 per cent of would-be summiteers to turn back." He also lists electrocution, HIV/AIDS and car accidents as other reasons for classifying Kilimanjaro as so dangerous.

To start off, I'm very glad that someone acknowledges how dangerous Kilimanjaro can be. Many would-be climbers think of it as a simple walk up hill for a few days and too frequently visitors opt to save a few dollars and rush up the mountain rather than take a bit more time to acclimate properly. Regardless of the mountain, it's important to always respect it and know what the real risks are.

But I also have to call into question some of the good doctors statistics. I have heard everything from as low as 1 in 10 to as high as 9 in 10 climbers reach the summit. I suspect some of this depends on the route, time of year, outfitter, etc. Certainly the Marangu route has the lowest summit rate, and I wouldn't be at all surprised if his estimates of 50 and 75 percent turning back on this route is accurate. But historically we've see over 90% of clients summit via the longer (and thus better to acclimate) routes like Machame, Lemosho and Rongai.

The title of the article is Kilimanjaro: dangers galore on the summit trail but then goes into graphic detail about how to avoid HIV/AIDS as well as electrocution. I don't know how you get to the top of a mountain, but I've never seen an article about Everest or K2 warning about sex and faulty wiring. But maybe that's the point. Kilimanjaro seems so accessible that these more 'everyday' issues are a problem.

Welcome to Kilimanajro Adventures' Blog!

Before my first visit to Kilimanjaro a friend who had already climbed it said "it's one of those 'life changing' places." Boy was she right. The people of Tanzania are warm and easy to laugh. Every time I go back I feel like I'm coming home. The landscape is breathtaking and the wildlife amazing.

As a way to stay connected and give back I co-founded Kilimanjaro Adventures. Our goal is to connect people with a safe local outfitter in Tanzania that will allow them to experience the Tanzanian landscape, wildlife and culture without costing an arm and a leg. In that process we've been able to stay connected to our friends in Tanzania.

My goal with this blog is a little different. I've spent the last 7 years talking to Americans, Brits, Germans, Italians, Indians and others about Kilimanjaro and Tanzania. I've been impressed with the amount of interest and excitement people have. And so I've started this blog to connect with those of us outside of Tanzania, to speak to some of the ongoing questions and comments people have and hopefully bring Kilimanjaro a bit closer to all of us, or maybe get us all a bit closer to Kilimanjaro.

I can't promise I'll always be right, but I will always be as open and honest as I can. I welcome your comments and questions. Please feel free to reach me directly at dan@kiliadventures.com or post your comments here.

Thank you,
Daniel